Upgraded Brakes and Clutch with DP-Brakes

Improved Stop And Go.

1 Here are the DPHK500 clutch friction plate kit (left) and the DPHK505 clutch steel plate kit (right).

2 To begin the clutch pack replacement, John put his bike on his shop lift, removed the saddlebags, left passenger peg, left floorboard, and shift lever, and then loosened the clutch cable.

3 While DP says you don’t need to pre-soak the clutch plates, John’s too old-school not to.

4 Next John placed an oil-absorbent sheet under the bike and drained the primary case.

5 Anytime you open the primary case, it’s a good idea to inspect all the main drive parts, including the chain, sprockets, chain tensioner, and starter jackshaft.

6 John removed the six bolts holding the diaphragm spring retainer to the clutch hub, followed by the retainer and diaphragm spring.

7 He then removed the pressure plate exposing the old clutch plates, which fell out easily. Note that there is one narrow friction plate and it’s located on the inside closest to the transmission.

8 Here’s a comparison of an old steel plate (bottom) and a new DP steel plate (top). Notice the bluish discoloration ring on the old plate. This indicates that the clutch was slipping.

9 Here’s a comparison of an old friction plate (bottom) and a new DP friction plate (top). Note that the DP friction pad surface is larger than on the stock plate.

10 John installed the new clutch pack beginning with the narrow ring first.

11 He then installed a steel plate followed by another friction plate until he had installed all nine friction plates and eight steel plates.

12 To finish the clutch, he reinstalled the pressure plate, diaphragm spring, and retainer, and torqued the retainer bolts. Finally, he reinstalled the primary case, added a quart of primary lubricant, installed the shifter, floorboard, and passenger peg, then adjusted the clutch cable.

13 These are three packages of the DP957 disc brake pads for the front and rear calipers.

14 John started on the disc brake pad replacement with the right front brake. The left front procedure is exactly the same except that the pad orientation is reversed. Just match how the old pads come out and you’ll be fine. John loosened the two pad pins.

15 Next he turned the front wheel so the master cylinder reservoir was level, taped a shop rag around the reservoir to catch leaks, and removed the cover.

16 He pried the inner and outer pistons back into their bores using a thin blade putty knife to protect the brake rotor from scratches.

17 With the pad pins removed, he loosened the upper and lower caliper mounting bolts.

18 The old pads then dropped out. John made sure that the anti-rattle spring on top of the caliper stayed in place.

19 Here’s a comparison of the new DP pads and the worn stock pads. Yeah, the old ones were used up.

20 John installed the new pads with the friction material facing the brake rotor and made sure the pad orientation matched the orientation of the old pad.

21 Finally for the front left, John inserted the pad pins to hold the pads in place, tightened and torqued the caliper mounting bolts, and tightened and torqued the pad pins.

22 The rear brake procedure is similar to the front brakes but typically done one pad at a time because it’s too hard to loosen the caliper. John loosened the pad pins (shown here), removed the rear master cylinder cover, pried the inside piston into its bore, pulled the pad pins partly out to allow the old pad to drop, then inserted the new DP pad. He pumped the rear brake pedal to push the inside pistons out holding the new inside pad in place.

23 Next he pried the outside pistons into their bores and removed the pad pins dropping the outside pad.

24 The new DP pad was inserted matching the orientation of the old pad. He then installed, tightened, and torqued the pad pins.

25 Here’s a close-up of a new rear pad in position against the brake disc—lots of new braking surface. To complete the brakes, John pumped the brakes to seat the pads, checked the fluid levels, installed the reservoir covers, and finished off with a testride.

On a motorcycle, the brakes and clutch are crucial components for safe and reliable stop-and-go operations. Because both of these systems use abradable friction surfaces, doesn’t it make sense to upgrade them with products from a manufacturer that specializes in brakes and clutches? Of course, which is why we’re installing DP-Brakes’ disc brake pads and clutch kit on our friend John’s ’06 Electra Glide. John had already installed some serious motor upgrades, so he was delivering greater-than-stock power and torque to his stock clutch, which was starting to slip. Plus he usually stops from, shall we say, greater-than-stock speeds, so he was punishing the stock brakes, which were alarmingly thin.

DP-Brakes is a leading maker of sintered metal brake pads (that means compressed from metal powders—sounds sinister) that are designed to last longer, be more effective in wet conditions, transfer less heat to the caliper, lessen rotor wear, reduce brake fade, and eliminate brake dust and noise. Their clutch friction pads are made from a blend of carbon and aramid fibers producing a high heat friction material for fade-free, long-lasting high performance. The clutch pads are also ready to install without pre-soaking in oil. DP’s clutch steel plates are precision made and heat treated for maximum life and durability.

For John’s bike, DP sent us three packs of its DP957 disc brake pads, a DPHK500 clutch friction plate kit, and a DPHK505 clutch steel plate kit. John started the install about 9:30 a.m. and was done by noon. He’s done this a few times, so if you’re less experienced, allow a bit more time. It’s always a good idea to have a service manual for your bike to check procedures, torque specs, and safety cautions.

After installation, John performed a testride. Of course, new brake pads can take up to 100 miles to break-in, so he avoided hard stops but did report a firm feel on the brakes. As for the new DP clutch, the improvement was dramatic compared to old worn clutch plates. John said that getting out of the hole hard would lift the frontend without much effort, that the slippage was completely gone, and that slow speed clutch control was nice as well.

Source:

DP-Brakes
9716) 681-8806 | dp-brakes.com