Tech Goin’ Big for More Power With H-D’s 110 Big Bore Kit As the saying goes, either go big or go home. At least that’s the plan with our 2012 Road Glide Custom. We are going to transform this bad boy brawlin’ bagger into an undisputed world champion. For starters, if you’re going to run with the big dogs, you better have big legs. While it is possible to push a lot of horsepower and torque out of a small engine, in the end, you just end up stressing parts to the eventual point of failure. And at the end of the day, there’s still no replacement for displacement. Cubic inches that is! 1 Here’s our bike getting prepped for surgery. 2 After properly securing the bike, start with removing the bags and seat. 3 Drain all the fuel to avoid spilling and store in a safe place. 4 Remove the gas tank with the four bolts that hold it on. 5 Located above the battery is the ECM. Carefully remove all connectors and place to the side. 5 Located above the battery is the ECM. Carefully remove all connectors and place to the s 6 Remove the floorboards and place aside. For the first installment we are tearing down the motor to its core in preparation for a Screamin’ Eagle 110 Stage I Kit. Keep in mind this job isn’t for the timid or mechanically un-skilled. Don’t expect to finish it all in a weekend drinking brewskis in your garage because you are going to need a shop to do some machine work. To make sure this was done correctly, we enlisted the help of the good folks over at the H-D fleet center. After all, if you’re going to perform open-heart surgery, you definitely want the skills of a surgeon. Like we mentioned before, our Screamin’ Eagle 110 Kit requires some machine work, so we’ll start with showing how break down the block and prep a motor for boring. HB Source: Harley-Davidson harley-davidson.com email@example.com 7 Place an oil catch pan under the bike and drain the oil. 8-9 Remove the derby and primary covers. 8-9 Remove the derby and primary covers. 10-11 Using a zip tie, compress the auto chain tensioner and carefully remove. 10-11 Using a zip tie, compress the auto chain tensioner and carefully remove. 12 We then removed the clutch retainer clip. 13 Using a locking tool to keep the motor from turning, use a breaker bar to remove the clutch. 13 Using a locking tool to keep the motor from turning, use a breaker bar to remove the cl 14 Remove the clutch assembly and inner primary cover. 15 Carefully remove the rotor from the stator. It’s easier to do this with the motor still installed. 15 Carefully remove the rotor from the stator. It’s easier to do this with the motor still 16 Remove the heat shields followed by the exhaust. 17 Remove the air cleaner and air cleaner assembly. 18 Disconnect any connectors then unbolt and remove the throttle body. 19 Remove the oil filter and drain any remaining oil. 20 Disconnect the shifter linkage and place to the side. 21 Make sure and disconnect the rotor/stator connector. 22 Support the transmission using a flat jack. 23 Remove all the bolts that keep the motor mounted. 24 Disconnect the motor from the transmission. 25 Remove the rear brake pedal and master cylinder and place to the side. 26 Make sure all connections and hardware are disconnected and remove the motor placing it on a bench or engine stand. 26 Make sure all connections and hardware are disconnected and remove the motor placing it 27 Remove top rocker covers from both cylinders. 28 Next remove the rocker arms from each cylinder. 29 Carefully remove lower rocker boxes. 30 Remove each pushrod, keeping note which rod goes with which cylinder and exhaust or intake side. 30 Remove each pushrod, keeping note which rod goes with which cylinder and exhaust or int 31 Using a pushrod tube removal tool, remove each pushrod tube. 32 Carefully remove each head bolt cover and sparkplugs. 33 Loosen lower head bolts. 34 Next remove lower cylinders. 35 Remove the head exposing the crank and pistons. By John Zamora Enjoyed this Post? Subscribe to our RSS Feed, or use your favorite social media to recommend us to friends and colleagues!