ProCharger Supercharger Install, Part 2 | 2011 Harley-Davidson Dyna

In the first part of this article, the principles and benefits of supercharging an air-cooled V-twin were explored along with a description of the major aspects of the ProCharger system, but we kept our hands clean with a classroom approach. This article gets its metaphorical hands dirty by delving into a grease-up-to-its-elbows installation of the ProCharger system and reveals the nitty-gritty real-world power produced by bolting it onto a practically stock bike. While the installation of the system is straightforward and relatively simple, there are many steps involved and important details that if missed, might be cause for disaster if not handled properly. A good tech could have one installed in a day (without photographer interference), but a garage builder should pencil in a weekend and not rush it.

There are many shops that have the skills to bolt one of these superchargers to a bike, but there are few that can prove they’ve done it correctly. Proving that a performance modification yielded a power gain requires a dynamometer, and the shops that are serious about performance have invested in one. It’s usually obvious which ones are serious because their shops have race bikes stored in the service area, photographs of race vehicles on the walls, and a curious bike-sized box with huge conduit tubes sticking out of it. Huntington Beach Hogs and Choppers (HBHC), of Huntington Beach, California, is one of a small number of shops in our area that have the ability, a modern dyno room, and a history of racing, which made them the perfect candidates to provide an example of a professional installation and prove the exciting results with a certified graph of the gains. Plus, HBHC had a test mule desperately in need of some pick-me-up in the form of an ’11 Twin Cam 96ci Dyna with a 2-into-1 exhaust pipe and a 100 percent stock motor. They had ProCharger’s kit installed in about five hours (with photographer interference) with an additional hour on the dyno. For a refresher on how the ProCharger works visit part one of this series on hotbikeweb.com.

1 One of HBHC’s head techs, Larry, tore into the installation and set the bike upright on a lift, disconnected the battery, removed the horn, drained the primary fluid, and removed the primary outer cover, chain, compensator bolt, and clutch basket. This particular kit is not compatible with mid controls, so the stock shifter parts were removed and the hole for the shifter lever was plugged. Forward controls will have to be installed.
1 One of HBHC’s head techs, Larry, tore into the installation and set the bike upright on
2 The inner primary was replaced and torqued to stock specs along with the primary assembly. Larry added the ProCharger Driving Cod Pulley assembly to the compensator sprocket with the supplied washer and lengthened bolt. He then added the AIM Lock-up Clutch billet pressure plate that aids the clutch separation.
2 The inner primary was replaced and torqued to stock specs along with the primary assemb
3 Next, the Variable Pressure weighted clutch outer was bolted to the pressure plate. AIM claims that its device will reduce clutch lever pull effort by 40 percent and add an additional 40 percent clutch pressure to help ensure the clutch doesn’t slip when the throttle is hammered.
3 Next, the Variable Pressure weighted clutch outer was bolted to the pressure plate. AIM

4 The big, beautiful billet outer primary cover and gasket were torqued onto the inner cover (don’t forget the bolt hidden under the belt tensioner pulley) in the proper sequence. The idler pulley was then installed with the belt and the belt tensioning jig was secured to the outer cover. The included belt tension tester and a machinist ruler were used to establish 3/32-inch of belt deflection between 6 and 6-1/2 pounds of force.
4 The big, beautiful billet outer primary cover and gasket were torqued onto the inner co
5 Larry removed the jig and installed the belt cover, mindful of the proper bolt tightening sequence.
5 Larry removed the jig and installed the belt cover, mindful of the proper bolt tighteni
6 In the same manner as the belt cover, the clutch cover was installed and approximately 1-1/2 quarts of Screamin’ Eagle Syn 3 20w50 was added to the primary.
6 In the same manner as the belt cover, the clutch cover was installed and approximately

7 It may look like a close fit, but the stock derby cover can be bolted onto the ProCharger primary cover without any fear of interference by the new internal components.
7 It may look like a close fit, but the stock derby cover can be bolted onto the ProCharg
8 After he removed the induction module from the heads, Larry also pulled all the sensors and connections, then drilled the flat area on the bottom in preparation for the manifold vacuum source male hose fitting.
8 After he removed the induction module from the heads, Larry also pulled all the sensors
9 Supplied in the kit, he used the pipe tap to cut threads into the hole.

10 Once the threads were cut, Larry cleaned the induction module of any metal debris and screwed in the 90-degree hose fitting with Teflon tape.
10 Once the threads were cut, Larry cleaned the induction module of any metal debris and
11 New, high-flow injectors were swapped with the stock injectors, along with a new fuel rail.
11 New, high-flow injectors were swapped with the stock injectors, along with a new fuel
12 The fuel line was reattached to the intake, as were the stock sensors and new injector connectors.
12 The fuel line was reattached to the intake, as were the stock sensors and new injector