Sweet Tracker | ISR Controls and Barnett Cables

09. The clutch cable eyelet simply installs to the ISR pivot pin and is held in place with this snap ring.

10. After I installed the clutch cable eyelet to the pivot pin and I installed the snap ring, then I adjusted the clutch and installation was complete.

12. We had to remove the pins from the Deutsch connectors since we weren’t going to utilize the HORN and RUN functions on the Sweet Tracker. We needed to solder lead wires to the push buttons and the slide switch on the ISR switches, and then eventually solder the leads to the factor wiring, ultimately re-using the Deutsch connectors.

13. Because I wanted to ditch the RUN button, we had to tap its wire into the START wire. After this was done, a nice dab of solder was applied and heat shrink sealed the new connection up nice and tight.

14. Starting with the right side ISR switch housing, the two push buttons were removed with a tiny flathead screwdriver. The top button: START; the bottom: TURN. Gard had plenty of wire lying around the shop so we tried to match the factory colors as close as possible. Note: You may want to color code your lead wires to the factory wire colors. Gard soldered up the leads to each push-button terminal (two per button) and coated them with heat shrink and then re-installed the buttons to the switch.

15. After repeating the same process to the push button on the left side ISR switch, Gard moved on to wiring the slide switch, which will act as the high/low beam.

16. Gard emphasized the importance of a very hot soldering iron and that a little bit of solder goes a long way. He used a 1.5mm Allen wrench to loosen and remove the two Allen bolts holding this three-pronged terminal in place. He then tinged the end of the red lead wire with solder and bent it to hook around the switch terminal.

17. The red lead indicates power going into the switch (middle terminal). The black wire on the left is the high-beam wire, and the white wire on the right is the low beam wire. Once soldering was complete, heat shrink was used over the terminals to seal the new connections in place.

18. The ISR switch leads were ready to be soldered to the factory wiring. For the left switch, I’m running the left turn signal, and high/low beam functions. For the right, I’m keeping the right turn, and ditching the run wire but linking it to the start wire, so I’ll only need two push buttons. The last wiring step was to solder the leads to the factory wiring, heat shrink the connections, and then route the wiring through the bars.

19. In order to do that, we needed to drill the bars to run the wires internally. Gard drilled a main slot in the bottom-center of the Tracker bar and two generous-sized holes in the left and right sides of the bar where the switches will mount. The center slot needs to be large enough to accept both the right and left side switch wiring. After drilling the holes, he die-grinded the holes smooth, and finished them up with the de-burring tool. Bar complete, ready for wiring.

20. After fishing the left and right side switch wiring through the bar and out the center slot, the factory heat shrink was reused to cover the exposed wiring. The bar was then re-installed and ready for final assembly.

21. The factory pins were plugged back into their Deutsch connectors (one grey, one black) and routed back to the inside of the headlamp assembly.

22. The switches and controls were then tightened down on both sides of the Tracker Bar and installation was complete. Overall, the wiring section wasn’t as tough as I thought, but then again I was on the outside looking in. Thanks for the lesson, Gard!