Rear Sets and Risers | Sweet Tracker Conversion Numero Dos

And here’s where I left off last issue. The Sweet Tracker is getting closer and closer to being done.

And here’s where I left off last issue. The Sweet Tracker is getting closer and closer to

Things are moving along nicely with the Sweet Tracker project. My goal is to convert a stock ’00 XL883 Sportster into a badass dirt track racing replica. I’m getting closer and closer to the end result, and so far, I likey.

There was a lot going on in the first installment, so if you missed it, be sure to grab a copy of the November issue of HOT BIKE because along with revealing where Hoffa is buried, I touched on some pretty cool, in-depth installation applications. Now that I have achieved a proper roller thanks to a front-to-rear wheel conversion using an OE cast, 13-spoke, 19x2.15-inch wheel, along with of course another 19-inch wheel up front, it really gave the Sweet Tracker an even, stable stance. And the gold powdercoated wheels really help achieve the black-and-gold theme I’m going with. I also beefed up the front suspension with new fork springs and Gold Valve Emulators from Race Tech, and a gorgeous set of piggyback rear shocks from Öhlins Suspension. Of course, no dirt track racer should run a beltdrive so I hit up Baker Drivetrain for some chaindrive conversion parts.

01. The Chainsikle rearsets are of nice quality and won’t break the bank. Included are the brake and shift controls, shifter rod, and mounting hardware. When I opened the box, I noticed that most of the hardware (bolts, washers, spacers, etc.) was already installed on the controls. I dig not having to think more than I have to. For the handlebar assembly the Biltwell Tracker bar, Slimline Risers, Kung Fu Grips, and Whiskey Throttle assembly looked great when sitting side by side. I had the Slimlines powdercoated gold by HP Performance Coatings to keep the black and gold theme too.

01. The Chainsikle rearsets are of nice quality and won’t break the bank. Included are th

This month, I’m going to tackle the handlebar/riser/grips department with some goods from the Biltwell boys. After chatting with the crew during the El Diablo Run open house, it was decided that the company’s new Slimline Risers ($95), Tracker handlebar ($80), and Kung Fu Grips ($18) attached to a new little thingamajig known as the Whiskey Throttle ($99) would be perfect. The Slimlines are made from stainless steel and come polished or powdercoated black. Their short stature (1 3/4 inches tall) provides a more aggressive riding position, which is great for racing. The Tracker is a racy-looking 1-inch bar that’s available in black or chrome in a smooth finish or dimpled to fit stock controls. The Kung Fu Grips are also a nice addition with a BMX-inspired theme, so I thought it was a good fit with the other components. They are available in black or natural gum rubber colors and fit 1-inch and 7/8-inch bars. Lastly, the Whiskey Throttle is a sweet throttle assembly that is CNC-machined from billet aluminum to fit 1-inch bars. It comes with eight different ferrule mounts to fit Harley and custom throttle/idle cables.

For foot controls, I stumbled upon a guy in Utah named Shane Sorensen, owner of Chainsikle, which makes inexpensive rearset foot controls ($250-$350) for ’86-03 and ’04-later Sportsters. Shane has no overhead, so he can afford to give Sporty owners quality products at a reasonable price. He’s just a guy doing what he loves, and I can definitely appreciate that! The rearsets can be ordered in standard or Reverse shift patterns and are made from billet aluminum so they’re lightweight, and are available in clear or black anodize. I ordered the 4-011 setup since it’s particularly made for use with high pipes, which I’m going to run. Something to keep in mind…

That’s all I have for you this month, but check back often as I get into the real meat of the bike with a complete engine overhaul. HB

02. Since I’m not planning to run a speedo/tach on the bike, all of the chrome (risers, bar, etc.) you see before you is being sacrificed to the motorcycle gods. I started by ditching the speedo/tach assembly.
02. Since I’m not planning to run a speedo/tach on the bike, all of the chrome (risers, b
03. Off came the stock switch housings from both sides. I needed to get the throttle/idle cables out of the stock controls to install them on the Whiskey Throttle. I have a few ideas on what kind of controls I’m going to run so look for that in a future issue.
03. Off came the stock switch housings from both sides. I needed to get the throttle/idle
04. I removed the gold ferrules from the throttle/idle cables and fished the stock cables out.
04. I removed the gold ferrules from the throttle/idle cables and fished the stock cables

05. Next, I loosened the bottom riser bolts and removed the stock riser/bar assembly as one.
05. Next, I loosened the bottom riser bolts and removed the stock riser/bar assembly as o
06. Using the stock riser hardware, I bolted on the gold powdercoated Slimline Risers and loosely tightened them down. On went the tracker bar, and once it was positioned how I wanted it, I tightened the lower riser bolts and then secured the risers’ top clamps with the provided stainless hardware.
06. Using the stock riser hardware, I bolted on the gold powdercoated Slimline Risers and
07. I slid the stock throttle/idle cables through the Whiskey Throttle clamp and re-installed the gold ferrules while inserting them into their respective push/pull ports…
07. I slid the stock throttle/idle cables through the Whiskey Throttle clamp and re-insta

08. …then I slid the throttle on the Tracker bar and tightened down the top clamp. I adjusted the cables and checked for play and everything was good to go.
08. …then I slid the throttle on the Tracker bar and tightened down the top clamp. I adju
09. Last to go on were the Kung Fu Grips. They had a nice racy look and install easily. The Biltwell setup looks nice and clean. That does it for the handlebar assembly. Once I get the controls dialed in, I’ll be ready to roll.
09. Last to go on were the Kung Fu Grips. They had a nice racy look and install easily. T
10. Down to the foot controls. Since the bike came stripped of a lot of parts, I didn’t have much disassembling to do. For the brake side, I needed to rebuild the master cylinder since a lot of its internals were missing, which I’ll do during final assembly. To mount the master cylinder with the Chainsikle rearsets, it needed to be flipped around. I removed the master cylinder to install the rearset mounting bracket.
10. Down to the foot controls. Since the bike came stripped of a lot of parts, I didn’t h

11. As I mentioned earlier, the hardware was already installed where each bolt needed to go in the chain cover. Simple. I tightened down the bracket with threadlocker on the bolts.
11. As I mentioned earlier, the hardware was already installed where each bolt needed to
12. This is how the master cylinder installs on the rearset bracket. I wanted to mock up its positioning before rebuilding it. You’ll need to use some elbow grease when tweaking the brake line to fit the new location. Make sure to remove it from the master cylinder before you start bending. And be careful not to scratch powdercoated or chromed covers. Blue painter’s tape works well. Also, Chainsikle offers braided brake lines for an extra charge if you want to ditch the stock line.
12. This is how the master cylinder installs on the rearset bracket. I wanted to mock up
13. After mounting the flipped master cylinder and re-mounting the tweaked brake line, I installed the footpeg and brake lever to see if everything lined up. Since there were no problems, I rebuilt the master cylinder with the missing parts I’d ordered from the dealership.
13. After mounting the flipped master cylinder and re-mounting the tweaked brake line, I

14. Once I finished rebuilding the master cylinder, I hooked up the brake rod to the brake lever and installed the provided black cover to the master cylinder to kind of clean it up a bit. Brake side done.
14. Once I finished rebuilding the master cylinder, I hooked up the brake rod to the brak
15. Over on the shift side, since the stock foot controls were missing, I was lucky to not have to remove anything. I’m such an optimist. Again, the hardware came pre-installed into the respective mounts, and I simply bolted the shift side rearset mounting bracket to the right three bolt holes on the outer primary cover (arrows).
15. Over on the shift side, since the stock foot controls were missing, I was lucky to no
16. The shifter rod was then installed in order to hook the shift linkage up. There is a pinch bolt that holds the shift rod in place.
16. The shifter rod was then installed in order to hook the shift linkage up. There is a

17. The linkage was hooked up and installation was complete.
18. Overall, the installation of the Chainsikle rearsets and Biltwell components took about two hours in my garage. The Tracker bar definitely provides a dirt track feel, and in conjunction to the rearsets, will put me in a more aggressive riding position when trying my best to not plow into a wall at the dirt track.
18. Overall, the installation of the Chainsikle rearsets and Biltwell components took abo