Making Power With SuperTrapp, Wimmer, and Daytona Twin Tec

05. Trey then reinstalled the stock two-piece P-clamp underneath the engine case (arrow) to also secure the pipe in place. He torqued all the hardware to factory specs, and then reconnected the oxygen sensors to their respective receptacles.

06. Next, Trey installed the muffler to the head pipe and tightened it to the bracket with the supplied hardware (red arrow) along with the new muffler clamp to the head pipe (blue arrow). After tightening everything down using threadlocker, he was ready to install the heat shields.

07. Trey slid the hose clamps into the heat shields and installed them to head pipes. There are three heat shields: two for the head pipes and one for the crossover leading to the muffler.

08. Disc time. The amount of discs used is based on personal preference. The kit comes with 20, but for this install we only used 16 discs. According to Jeff Wells from SuperTrapp, 16 to 18 is a good all-around number to use with a stock motor and upgraded pipes and air filter because it provides the best balance of off-idle torque with clean top-end performance, which remains strong throughout the powerband. You want off-idle mid range power because that’s where most riding takes place. Twenty discs might provide a slight gain in the top end, but you could lose power down low on a stock motor. Trey installed the discs and torqued them to SuperTrapp’s specs.

09. Moving on to the air cleaner, Trey removed the entire stock air cleaner. He then installed the Wimmer Better Sucker’s new backing plate with the provided breather bolts and spacers to the cylinder heads, and the hardware to the throttle body.

10. After Trey hooked up the air filter, he chose the black air filter cover to match the bike’s blacked-out theme.

11. To install the Twin Tuner II, Trey removed the left side cover, pulled the Maxi-Fuse from the fuse box, and disconnected the main harness from the ECM.

12. Trey removed seven pins from the stock harness using a small flathead screwdriver (a detailed schematic is provided in the instructions of which pins to remove). He then installed the Twin Tuner II’s seven wires into the main harness…

13. …And plugged the stock seven wires into the Twin Tuner II’s small mating connector.

14. With all the pins in place, he placed the protective plastic cover over the pins on the main harness and hooked up all the connectors.

15. The Twin Tuner II’s ground wire was hooked up to the battery (arrow) and installation was completed at this time.

16. HB Hogs Owner Ed Syer took the bike for a short spin around the block and then put the bike on the dyno to see how well the new components performed. Before the parts were installed, Ed made a baseline run of the stock bike on the dyno. The stock bike produced 63.74 hp and 80.61 lb-ft of torque. With the new components installed, he reached 74.91 hp and 84.62 lb-ft of torque without adjusting the Twin Tuner II. He then made some adjustments via Daytona Twin Tec’s instructions to the Twin Tuner II and achieved 75.27 hp and 86.55 lb-ft of torque. In total, that’s a gain of 11.53 hp and 5.94 lb-ft of torque. The Twin Tuner II can be fine-tuned even more in the advanced mode with the provided USB interface and PC link software for even better performance. Straight out of the box, that’s a pretty substantial gain, and the bike’s owner was extremely pleased with the overall results.