Nothing's Shocking | 1996 Harley Davidson Softail Springer Suspension Lowering

1996 Hd Softail Springer Suspension Lowering Kit Combined

01. Here's a look at everything we got for the install. (A) Burly Springer Fork lowering kit ($149.99), which comes with chrome compression springs, spring spacers, and bushings. (B) Progressive Suspension Springer Damper ($185.35). (C) Burly Springer Compressor Tool ($34.99). And (D) Progressive Suspension's 422 Series shocks ($617.95). (E) The 422s come with a preload adjustment tool.

01. Here's a look at everything we got for the install. (A) Burly Springer Fork lowering

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One of our project bikes, a '96 Softail Springer, was ready for some new life in the suspension department. Knowing that we wanted to drop the rear a little bit we figured we should drop the front as well for a more even look and better ride. When it comes to rear shocks for Softail models there are plenty of options to choose from, but unlike conventional frontends, lowering kits for Springers are a bit limited.

Progressive Suspension has been in the suspension game since 1982 and is continually developing new products and refining existing products to create top-of-the-line suspension components so we knew we'd be happy with a set of the company's 422 Series shocks. The 422 Series is fully adjustable for both ride height (stock to 2 inches lower) and preload (adjusts for riding style, rider's weight/carrying load). While we were at it we also picked up one of Progressive's Springer Dampers to replace the stock unit up front. To lower the front we came across Burly Brand's Springer Fork Lowering kit for H-D Springer models, which will drop the frontend 1 1/2 inches. In order to install the Springer lowering kit we had to get one of Burly's Springer Compressor Tools. We were able to complete the install in one of our home garages in just a few hours.

02. Space can be pretty tight to gain access to the shock bolts, so we jacked the bike up to give ourselves enough room to get a wrench between the shock bolts and lift table. A couple blocks of wood held the frame up while a jack under the rear tire allowed us to easily adjust the rear tire/swingarm as needed.
02. Space can be pretty tight to gain access to the shock bolts, so we jacked the bike up
03. Here's a cutaway of Progressive's 422 Series shock. The shock works with a combination of a spring and damping piston/oil system and high-pressure gas. While the spring takes up the initial hit of the bumps, to help avoid the pogo effect of the spring, the internal damping system smoothes out the compression/rebound for a plush ride. You can also see the preload and ride-height adjustment points. You may also notice that this cutaway is of a unit for '00-later Softails. The only difference between the '89-99 unit and the '00-later is the swingarm mounting point (arrow).
03. Here's a cutaway of Progressive's 422 Series shock. The shock works with a combinatio
04. With the stock shock already pulled, we installed the new 422 by first bolting the front of the shock to the frame. We used the stock shock bolts with some threadlocker and torqued the bolts to factory spec.
04. With the stock shock already pulled, we installed the new 422 by first bolting the fr

05. The 422's come already preset at 1 inch lower than stock ride height. However, at that height we didn't like how high the fender was sitting over the tire so we used the jack to get the tire to set inside the fender. You can see that the swingarm/rear shock mounts didn't line up so we loosened the lock nut and adjusted the ride height settings on the shocks. The more threads exposed on the adjustable eye, the lower the bike will sit. We made sure to adhere to the instruction warning of not running out more than 9/16 inch of exposed threads, measured from the locknut to the end of the threads (arrows).
05. The 422's come already preset at 1 inch lower than stock ride height. However, at tha
06.…we loosened the lock nut and adjusted the ride height settings on the shocks. The more threads exposed on the adjustable eye, the lower the bike will sit. We made sure to adhere to the instruction warning of not running out more than 9/16 inch of exposed threads, measured from the locknut to the end of the threads (arrows).
06. …we loosened the lock nut and adjusted the ride height settings on the shocks. The mor
07. Once the shocks were properly adjusted, we installed them and applied some thread locker to the rear mounting bolts, torqued them to spec, and made sure the locknut on the shock was tightened and torqued.
07. Once the shocks were properly adjusted, we installed them and applied some thread loc

08. The Burly Springer lowering kit consists of shorter compression springs and solid spacers. In order to install the kit the springer fork (front fork assembly) had to be removed. We started by raising the front of the bike so it was off the ground and then removed the front wheel.
08. The Burly Springer lowering kit consists of shorter compression springs and solid spa
09. The headlight assembly was then removed followed by the stock Springer shock absorber.
09. The headlight assembly was then removed followed by the stock Springer shock absorber
10. Next, the Burly springer compressor tool was installed. The tool is comprised of a threaded metal block that is bolted between the lower shock mounts (red arrow), a piece of threaded rod (blue arrow) that is slid through the hole in the top shock mount and threaded into the block, and a coupler nut (yellow arrow) that is threaded over the top of the rod.
10. Next, the Burly springer compressor tool was installed. The tool is comprised of a th

11. As the nut is tightened against the top shock mount it sucks up the springs.
11. As the nut is tightened against the top shock mount it sucks up the springs.
12. To keep the springer fork leg (front legs) from snapping forward upon disassembly, a zip-tie was strapped around the rigid fork legs (rear fork) and springer fork legs. The front rocker pivot bolts were then removed.
12. To keep the springer fork leg (front legs) from snapping forward upon disassembly, a
13 Back up top, with the springs compressed, we were able to remove the acorn nuts, washers, and spring bridge (red arrow), upper spring restraints (yellow arrow), and upper rebound springs (blue arrow).
13 Back up top, with the springs compressed, we were able to remove the acorn nuts, washe

14. We were then able to remove the springer fork assembly and swap out the stock compression springs (red arrows) for the shorter Burly springs (blue arrow).
14. We were then able to remove the springer fork assembly and swap out the stock compres
15. With new compression springs installed, the springer fork assembly was reinstalled and then the solid Burly spacers were installed.
15. With new compression springs installed, the springer fork assembly was reinstalled an
16. After reinstalling the stock rebound springs, the directions called for screwing the spring restraints down until 5/8 to 3/4 inch of threads were exposed.
16. After reinstalling the stock rebound springs, the directions called for screwing the

17. We then reinstalled the spring bridge, washers, and acorn nuts, and torqued the nuts to spec.
17. We then reinstalled the spring bridge, washers, and acorn nuts, and torqued the nuts
18. After removing the compressor tool, we then installed the new Progressive Suspension Springer Damper and headlight.
18. After removing the compressor tool, we then installed the new Progressive Suspension
19. In a couple of hours we had our Springer sitting about 1 1/2 inches lower front and rear. While it did reduce ground clearance and lean angle a little bit, we were very happy with the ride quality of the updated suspension. The new Springer Damper seemed to take some of the pogo effect out of the frontend and the rear shocks were definitely much smoother compared to stock.
19. In a couple of hours we had our Springer sitting about 1 1/2 inches lower front and r