In Depth
Last issue we got into the first part of a S&S hop-up install by giving an overview of some of the parts that were going to be installed. The main component of the hop-up was S&S' new 97ci Big Bore kit ($725) which includes pistons, cylinders, rings and gaskets with black or silver powdercoated cylinders for '99-06 Big Twins, a kit is also available for '07-later Big Twins to bump them up to 106ci. With a 3.927-inch bore this is a pretty economical way to increase displacement and performance because it's a direct bolt-on kit, which you can use your stock heads with, and it requires no machining.
1 Drifty made quick work of removing the tanks, disconnecting the battery, removing the exhaust and tearing into the engine.
1 Drifty made quick work of removing the tanks, disconnecting the battery, removing the e
Aside from the bolting on the Big Bore kit, the bike the kit was being installed onto, a carbureted '02 Softail with more than 60,000 miles, had extremely worn out cam chain tensioner shoes, which led to the decision to replace the stock cam chain setup for gear drive cams. And since gear drive was in order, an upgrade to more performance oriented cams seemed like a smart move, so a set of S&S' new 583 Easy-Start cams ($795) were ordered. To add to the hop-up portion of the install, the owner decided to replace his stock carb for an S&S Super E Shorty carb kit: carb, backing plate, a hi-flow air filter, breather kit, and tear drop air cleaner cover ($527.80). He also got some S&S Shotgun Slash-Cut Slip-on Performance mufflers ($403.60), Hi-Performance Hydraulic Tappet set ($248.35), Quickie Pushrods ($196.60), and Push Rod Covers ($127.80).
We caught up with Anaheim-Fullerton Harley-Davidson tech Drifty as he was tearing into the engine. Follow along as this old Softie gets its heart freshened up.
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2 With the cam plate/cams out you can get a look at how bad of shape the tensioner shoes were in. This is the upper shoe on the backside of the cam plate, you can see that not only is the shoe completely worn, but the metal arm has been torn up as well.
2 With the cam plate/cams out you can get a look at how bad of shape the tensioner shoes
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3 Using a bearing puller, Drifty removed the stock INA inner cam bearings...
3 Using a bearing puller, Drifty removed the stock INA inner cam bearings...
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4... and replaced them with a set of Torrington Inner Cam bearings from S&S. These new bearings have more rollers to them, which mean more bearing contact surface and more support. Before installing the bearings Drifty applied a liberal amount of Crane Cams Engine Assembly Lube.
4 ... and replaced them with a set of Torrington Inner Cam bearings from S&S. These new be
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5 Here's a look at one of the 585 Easy Start cams. Each of the exhaust cam lobes have a spring-loaded compression release lobe in the heal of the cam where the valve would normally be closed. The lobe holds the exhaust valve slightly open at cranking speed, releasing some compression making it easier for the engine to crank. When the engine starts and the rpm increases the compression release lobe is centrifugally retracted and the engine runs normally with full compression.
5 Here's a look at one of the 585 Easy Start cams. Each of the exhaust cam lobes have a s
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6 Using a press, Drifty pushed out the stock cams and cam bearings and pressed in new bearings and the 583 cams. For easy identification of the timing marks and to ensure proper alignment, Drifty marked the timing marks on the inner cam gears with a red line. S&S offers the Easy Start cams in three performance grinds: 551 Torque, 585 Horsepower, and these 583s, which are a mid-range cam for good overall performance with strong low-end torque.
6 Using a press, Drifty pushed out the stock cams and cam bearings and pressed in new bea
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7 The S&S cam retaining plate was then bolted in place. Before installing the cams/support plate, Drifty disassembled and inspected the old oil pump and noticed that there was some grooves/scarring. Therefore he replaced it with a new oil pump. The new pump was thoroughly packed with grease then slid into position.
7 The S&S cam retaining plate was then bolted in place. Before installing the cams/suppor
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8 The cams were coated with some Crane Cams Engine Assembly Lube then the cam plate was bolted in place and torqued to spec.
8 The cams were coated with some Crane Cams Engine Assembly Lube then the cam plate was b
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9 The S&S High Performance Hydraulic Tappets (lifters) were oiled and then set in place.
9 The S&S High Performance Hydraulic Tappets (lifters) were oiled and then set in place.
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10 Next the outer drive gears were aligned and installed.
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11 Before proceeding any further Drifty checked the inner cam gears and outer drive gears for proper backlash (the amount of free play between the gears) and to make sure they rolled freely with no binding. S&S specifies that minimal required backlash for the gear sets should be between .0005 and .001 inches and no more than .002 inches for cold gears. Too tight of fit can cause gear whine and gear damage, too loose can produce excessive gear noise or clatter.
11 Before proceeding any further Drifty checked the inner cam gears and outer drive gears
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12 Due to the new gear drive setup the inside of the cam cover had to be clearanced for proper fitment.
12 Due to the new gear drive setup the inside of the cam cover had to be clearanced for p
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13 After putting a new gasket in place, the cam cover was installed and torqued to spec. Drifty then moved onto installing the Big Bore kit by thoroughly cleaning the inside of the cylinders, and checking for proper ring end gap. S&S calls for the following ring end gaps: Top ring 0.012/0.022 (min/max inches) with a target gap of 0.017 inches, second ring 0.016/0.026 (min/max inches) with a target gap of 0.021 inches, oil rings 0.010/0.050 (min/max inches) with a target gap of 0.010-0.050 inches.
13 After putting a new gasket in place, the cam cover was installed and torqued to spec.
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14 With everything falling within spec, Drifty installed the rings onto the pistons.
14 With everything falling within spec, Drifty installed the rings onto the pistons.
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15 After applying a light coat of oil to the cylinder walls and pistons the cylinder base o-rings were installed then the pistons were connected to the rods and a ring compressor was used to slide the cylinders over the pistons.
15 After applying a light coat of oil to the cylinder walls and pistons the cylinder base
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16 Before installing the cylinder heads Drifty cleaned up the heads and valves a bit. A JIMS valve spring compressor was used to relieve tension off the valve springs. Then the valves and springs were removed followed by the valve stem seals. Even though the seals didn't show any sign of damage, they were replaced for good measure.
16 Before installing the cylinder heads Drifty cleaned up the heads and valves a bit. A J
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17 After inspecting the heads and making sure the sealing surface of the heads were clean and didn't have scratches or nicks, Drifty checked the valves in the guides. He noticed the valves were sticking a little so they were cleaned up. Here you can see the clean valve versus the dirty valve.
17 After inspecting the heads and making sure the sealing surface of the heads were clean
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18 Once he had the heads back together, Drifty installed the S&S multi-layer steel cylinder head gaskets...
18 Once he had the heads back together, Drifty installed the S&S multi-layer steel cylind
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19 ... And tightened the cylinder head bolts in a Z-pattern, torquing to spec. Once torqued each bolt was marked and given another 1/4 turn using the marks as reference points.
19 ... And tightened the cylinder head bolts in a Z-pattern, torquing to spec. Once torqu
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20 Next, the lifter blocks were installed followed by the lower rocker boxes. Before the rocker arm assembly was installed, Drifty replaced the plastic one-piece breather assembly (left) with a metal two-piece kit (right) from H-D. Harley used the metal versions in '99 and '00, and used the one piece assemblies from '01-03 and offered the metal versions as a Screamin' Eagle performance upgrade. Then in '04 they went back to the two-piece units.
20 Next, the lifter blocks were installed followed by the lower rocker boxes. Before the
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21 The S&S Quickie pushrods have a threaded adjuster that screws into the pushrod until the threads disengage allowing the adjuster to slide into the pushrod, making installation/removal much easier.
21 The S&S Quickie pushrods have a threaded adjuster that screws into the pushrod until t
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22 The pushrods and tubes were installed and the rocker assembly was torqued to spec. Then Drifty adjusted the pushrods, installed a new gasket and torqued the top rocker boxes to spec.
22 The pushrods and tubes were installed and the rocker assembly was torqued to spec. The
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23 While we stepped out for lunch, Drifty pulled the oil tank and thoroughly cleaned it to remove any leftover debris from the cam tensioners. When we returned Drifty was nearing completion and installing the new Super E Shorty carb kit. S&S recommends the Super E for engines up to 100ci. The Super E is a butterfly style carb that features a 47.6mm bore size which aides in higher air velocity for better low and midrange response and power.
23 While we stepped out for lunch, Drifty pulled the oil tank and thoroughly cleaned it t
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24 Once the carb assembly was installed Drifty finished up the install by securing the Shotgun Slash-Cut Slip-on Performance mufflers to the stock headers.
24 Once the carb assembly was installed Drifty finished up the install by securing the Sh
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25 Here's the bike all finished and ready for some break-in miles before getting on the dyno for final results.
25 Here's the bike all finished and ready for some break-in miles before getting on the d
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27 After proper break in, the bike was put on the dyno. The bike put out a max of 88.90hp and 102.51 lb-ft torque. While we didn't get baseline numbers on this bike for direct comparison we can see it did yield pretty good results. The hp curve has a nice smooth and steady climb from 2,100 rpm to about 5,300 rpm. And immediately the torque kicks up to almost 100 lb-ft at 2,300 rpm and pulls very strong to its peak at about 4,000 rpm. But more importantly the owner was very happy with the outcome and stated, "It's like a whole new bike. The torque is so much fun. I keep breaking the rear tire loose without really trying, and the pipes sound incredible." For video clip of how the pipes sound log onto
www.hotbikeweb.com. 27 After proper break in, the bike was put on the dyno. The bike put out a max of 88.90hp
S&S
Break In Recommendations
S&S Cycle
sscycle.com
Run the engine for about one minute at 1,250-1,750 rpm without cracking the throttle or subjecting the engine to any loads. Check for proper oil pressure and oil leaks. Shut the engine down and allow it to cool to touch. Start up again and allow engine to warm up for three to four minutes. Don't crack throttle or subject to any loads. Shut down and allow to cool. Repeat at least three more times. After engine has cooled to room temperature start 500 mile break in. The first 50 miles are the most critical for new rings and piston break in (engine damage is most likely to occur during this period). Keep heat down by not exceeding 2,500 rpm. Avoid lugging, riding in hot weather or traffic. Vary engine speed (recommend changing oil after first 50 miles. The next 500 miles should be spent running no faster than 3,500 rpm or 60 mph. Vary speed and rpm, do not lug engine (recommend changing oil again at 500 miles). For the balance of the first 1,000 miles the engine can run in a normal but conservative manner. You can be more liberal with the rpm range and the motorcycle can be operated at normal highway speeds. Avoid overheating or putting hard strain on the engine (no drag racing, dynos, excessive speed, trailer towing or side car operation). After 1,000 miles, change oil, and motorcycle can be operated normally.
Sources
Anaheim-Fullerton Harley-Davidson
(714) 871-6563
harleyfullerton.com