11 Before proceeding any further Drifty checked the inner cam gears and outer drive gears for proper backlash (the amount of free play between the gears) and to make sure they rolled freely with no binding. S&S specifies that minimal required backlash for the gear sets should be between .0005 and .001 inches and no more than .002 inches for cold gears. Too tight of fit can cause gear whine and gear damage, too loose can produce excessive gear noise or clatter.11 Before proceeding any further Drifty checked the inner cam gears and outer drive gears 12 Due to the new gear drive setup the inside of the cam cover had to be clearanced for proper fitment.12 Due to the new gear drive setup the inside of the cam cover had to be clearanced for p 13 After putting a new gasket in place, the cam cover was installed and torqued to spec. Drifty then moved onto installing the Big Bore kit by thoroughly cleaning the inside of the cylinders, and checking for proper ring end gap. S&S calls for the following ring end gaps: Top ring 0.012/0.022 (min/max inches) with a target gap of 0.017 inches, second ring 0.016/0.026 (min/max inches) with a target gap of 0.021 inches, oil rings 0.010/0.050 (min/max inches) with a target gap of 0.010-0.050 inches.13 After putting a new gasket in place, the cam cover was installed and torqued to spec. 14 With everything falling within spec, Drifty installed the rings onto the pistons.14 With everything falling within spec, Drifty installed the rings onto the pistons. 15 After applying a light coat of oil to the cylinder walls and pistons the cylinder base o-rings were installed then the pistons were connected to the rods and a ring compressor was used to slide the cylinders over the pistons.15 After applying a light coat of oil to the cylinder walls and pistons the cylinder base 16 Before installing the cylinder heads Drifty cleaned up the heads and valves a bit. A JIMS valve spring compressor was used to relieve tension off the valve springs. Then the valves and springs were removed followed by the valve stem seals. Even though the seals didn't show any sign of damage, they were replaced for good measure.16 Before installing the cylinder heads Drifty cleaned up the heads and valves a bit. A J 17 After inspecting the heads and making sure the sealing surface of the heads were clean and didn't have scratches or nicks, Drifty checked the valves in the guides. He noticed the valves were sticking a little so they were cleaned up. Here you can see the clean valve versus the dirty valve.17 After inspecting the heads and making sure the sealing surface of the heads were clean 18 Once he had the heads back together, Drifty installed the S&S multi-layer steel cylinder head gaskets...18 Once he had the heads back together, Drifty installed the S&S multi-layer steel cylind 19 ... And tightened the cylinder head bolts in a Z-pattern, torquing to spec. Once torqued each bolt was marked and given another 1/4 turn using the marks as reference points.19 ... And tightened the cylinder head bolts in a Z-pattern, torquing to spec. Once torqu 20 Next, the lifter blocks were installed followed by the lower rocker boxes. Before the rocker arm assembly was installed, Drifty replaced the plastic one-piece breather assembly (left) with a metal two-piece kit (right) from H-D. Harley used the metal versions in '99 and '00, and used the one piece assemblies from '01-03 and offered the metal versions as a Screamin' Eagle performance upgrade. Then in '04 they went back to the two-piece units.20 Next, the lifter blocks were installed followed by the lower rocker boxes. Before the 21 The S&S Quickie pushrods have a threaded adjuster that screws into the pushrod until the threads disengage allowing the adjuster to slide into the pushrod, making installation/removal much easier.21 The S&S Quickie pushrods have a threaded adjuster that screws into the pushrod until t 22 The pushrods and tubes were installed and the rocker assembly was torqued to spec. Then Drifty adjusted the pushrods, installed a new gasket and torqued the top rocker boxes to spec.22 The pushrods and tubes were installed and the rocker assembly was torqued to spec. The 23 While we stepped out for lunch, Drifty pulled the oil tank and thoroughly cleaned it to remove any leftover debris from the cam tensioners. When we returned Drifty was nearing completion and installing the new Super E Shorty carb kit. S&S recommends the Super E for engines up to 100ci. The Super E is a butterfly style carb that features a 47.6mm bore size which aides in higher air velocity for better low and midrange response and power.23 While we stepped out for lunch, Drifty pulled the oil tank and thoroughly cleaned it t 24 Once the carb assembly was installed Drifty finished up the install by securing the Shotgun Slash-Cut Slip-on Performance mufflers to the stock headers.24 Once the carb assembly was installed Drifty finished up the install by securing the Sh 25 Here's the bike all finished and ready for some break-in miles before getting on the dyno for final results.25 Here's the bike all finished and ready for some break-in miles before getting on the d 27 After proper break in, the bike was put on the dyno. The bike put out a max of 88.90hp and 102.51 lb-ft torque. While we didn't get baseline numbers on this bike for direct comparison we can see it did yield pretty good results. The hp curve has a nice smooth and steady climb from 2,100 rpm to about 5,300 rpm. And immediately the torque kicks up to almost 100 lb-ft at 2,300 rpm and pulls very strong to its peak at about 4,000 rpm. But more importantly the owner was very happy with the outcome and stated, "It's like a whole new bike. The torque is so much fun. I keep breaking the rear tire loose without really trying, and the pipes sound incredible." For video clip of how the pipes sound log onto www.hotbikeweb.com.27 After proper break in, the bike was put on the dyno. The bike put out a max of 88.90hp S&S Break In Recommendations S&S Cycle sscycle.com Run the engine for about one minute at 1,250-1,750 rpm without cracking the throttle or subjecting the engine to any loads. Check for proper oil pressure and oil leaks. Shut the engine down and allow it to cool to touch. Start up again and allow engine to warm up for three to four minutes. Don't crack throttle or subject to any loads. Shut down and allow to cool. Repeat at least three more times. After engine has cooled to room temperature start 500 mile break in. The first 50 miles are the most critical for new rings and piston break in (engine damage is most likely to occur during this period). Keep heat down by not exceeding 2,500 rpm. Avoid lugging, riding in hot weather or traffic. Vary engine speed (recommend changing oil after first 50 miles. The next 500 miles should be spent running no faster than 3,500 rpm or 60 mph. Vary speed and rpm, do not lug engine (recommend changing oil again at 500 miles). For the balance of the first 1,000 miles the engine can run in a normal but conservative manner. You can be more liberal with the rpm range and the motorcycle can be operated at normal highway speeds. Avoid overheating or putting hard strain on the engine (no drag racing, dynos, excessive speed, trailer towing or side car operation). After 1,000 miles, change oil, and motorcycle can be operated normally. Sources Anaheim-Fullerton Harley-Davidson (714) 871-6563 harleyfullerton.com « | 1 | 2 | View Full Article By Eric Ellis Enjoyed this Post? Subscribe to our RSS Feed, or use your favorite social media to recommend us to friends and colleagues!
