Big Boar Batteries

Here is the Big Boar Mini 300 with 200 CCA.

How can a battery be dead if it is brand new? We started working on a bike that had been sitting in a shop for over a year. When it was time to work on wiring and firing the bike we placed the battery back in the bike and hit the start button but it was dead. The odd thing was the battery was new when we got it, however it had been sitting in the box for over a year. So we placed it on a charger overnight and tried the battery out the next day. It was a little better but soon died out trying to turn over the 93ci motor. We tested the battery with a load tester to see what the draw was and find out if it was too small. The next thing we looked for were the cranking amps, which read 180 cold cranking amps (CCA) on the label. We knew we needed a new battery with more power, but how much and how big?

Here is the Big Boar 350 with 350 CCA.

We called the guys at Big Boar Products in Loudon, Tennessee, to probe some gray matter for the answers to our questions. The first thing Aaron Dills (the big boss) needed to know was how much space we had for the battery, and how it would mount in the frame; upright or on its side. Then, he needed to know the size of the motor (how many cubic inches), the electrical components we were running, and lastly, how the terminals face when mounted in the bike (what side the positive and negative are wired). The cool thing is that all of the Big Boar batteries are slightly smaller than stock, so if you plan to replace a stock battery then all you need to do is tell them what bike it is going in and it will fit. Also, all batteries are sealed so there's no need to check the battery fluids or worry about leaks.

We gave Aaron all the info about our custom bike with an S&S 93ci Shovelhead motor. The battery box is mounted under the seat pan wrapped inside the oil bag, and the space we have to work with is 9 inches long by 5 inches wide and 6 inches deep. We were told we had room for the Big Bore Mini packed with 200 Cold Cranking Amps (CCA) in a case that is 6 inches long by 3 1/2 inches wide and 5 1/4 inches tall. Or there was plenty of room for the Big Boar 350, which is what Aaron recommended. The Big Boar 350 is 6 7/8 inches long and 6 inches tall and 3 5/16 inches wide and has 350 CCA. With this size motor and plenty of room to work with, we went with the Big Boar 350.

1. We knew what we needed for this bike, the Big Boar 350, now we just needed to get it in the bike and ride. This battery is going into a rigid frame and there will be a lot of vibration so it's a good idea to have some padding if you have the room. We do, so a piece of rubber was placed on the bottom of the battery box and a few pieces were fitted in the gaps on the sides.
1. We knew what we needed for this bike, the Big Boar 350, now we just needed to get it in
2. Next, we installed the battery and routed the wires to the posts. It is a good idea to make sure the wires are well insulated. Also once bolted in place, they should be nice and tight. You do not want a loose connection; this will kill a good battery fast and it will keep it from charging as you ride.
2. Next, we installed the battery and routed the wires to the posts. It is a good idea to
3. The best way to ground a battery is to the starter or the engine, electricity will take the shortest path. If you have the room, route the negative post wire to one of the starter's mounting bolts.
3. The best way to ground a battery is to the starter or the engine, electricity will take

4. When installing a battery you should always connect the positive post first then the negative post, and when disconnecting always remove the negative post then the positive post. This will keep you from shorting out the bike's relays if you hit a metal tool from the positive post to the frame.
4. When installing a battery you should always connect the positive post first then the ne
5. Once you have the bike running check the charging system to see that you are putting a charge back into the battery as you ride. About 13 to 14 volts is what you want to see.
5. Once you have the bike running check the charging system to see that you are putting a
6. You always want to check seat clearance to make sure you are not sitting on top of the battery especially with a metal seat pan.
6. You always want to check seat clearance to make sure you are not sitting on top of the

7. On a seat where you can't see the top of the battery, you can place some cardboard under the seat pan on top of the battery, then sit down and bounce on the seat. Then remove the seat and check for any marks that would let you know if the battery is hitting the seat or not. If so you will need to make a cover. A thin piece of rubber from an old tire tube works.
7. On a seat where you can't see the top of the battery, you can place some cardboard unde
8. A good battery tender will give you great battery life; just make sure it will do the job for your bike. And always check for good connection.
8. A good battery tender will give you great battery life; just make sure it will do the j

Aaron Dills and the guys at Big Boar sent these top 10 battery tips to share with you for giving your battery a long life

1. Always fully charge any battery before putting it into service. Big Boar batteries are fully charged before being sold, but any battery sitting idle can loose 1/10 volt per day. Putting a battery into service without an adequate initial charge can shorten the overall life of a battery. Big Boar Products highly recommends the use of a battery-conditioning charger such as the Battery Tender.

2. Never use a charger larger than 10 amps on any motorcycle battery, and even then for only a few minutes at most for a quick boost. Only chargers of 2 amps or less should be used on a motorcycle battery for any length of time to avoid boiling it over and burning it up. Big Boar recommends the Deltran Battery Tender, or similar-type chargers, to keep your batteries safely in peak shape.

3. Install batteries in their intended position and make sure that vent tubes, if so equipped, are properly run. If a battery isn't made to be installed on its side, don't it can leak acid. Your bike will surely be damaged and you will likely have a dead battery. A vent tube that vents in front of the wheel can leak acid that will destroy chrome, paint, and anything else that stands in its path as the wheel flings the droplets about.

4. Check below seat pans, especially metal ones, for contact with the top of the battery terminals. Aaron has witnessed more than a few fires started by batteries shorted out by a low-hanging seat pan.

5. Always ground the starter motor directly and use heavy-gauge cable. Some stock bike starters are grounded in a roundabout way through the frame. Making the power run the shortest route possible from the battery to the starter prevents energy lost through heat. Aaron also recommends the use of cable no smaller than #4, and states that the #6-gauge typically used by the factory is too small. Only a true load tester will give any indication of the true state of your battery. A simple voltage check means nothing after a serious load is applied to a marginal battery.

6. Test a questionable battery with a load tester. What looks good on a cheap volt meter after a long charging session may leave you stranded with no way home. A good load tester mimics the instant real-world strain inflicted upon a battery after cranking over your engine for a few seconds for a more accurate test than checking for voltage alone.

7. If you have a big motor and a small battery, make sure you ride your bike long enough after each start to replenish the battery between starts. This can mean as much as 50 miles of riding in some cases. Get to know your bike and its charging characteristics before heading out for a long trip.

8. Disconnect your battery if you plan on storing your bike for more than a month at a time. Some bikes have memory chips on board that sap a few millivolts from your battery, even though the ignition switch may be off. Once a battery is allowed to completely discharge and remain there for any length of time, it can be impossible to revive the battery by charging it.

9. Use only baking soda and water to clean top of battery and terminals. Some degreasing agents and aerosol cleaners can mix with battery acid and destroy paint or eat rubber and plastic items.

10. Don't try to start your bike with a battery charger unless the charger has a high-amp boost setting. Using a charger of 10 amps or less in an attempt to fire up your bike can damage the electrical system. A battery charger is only supposed to restore power to a battery slowly after it is lost and cannot supply the high instantaneous amount of current required to start an engine.