That is one sick looking beltdrive," was the first thing I said when I opened the box from Evil Engineering. Inside that big white box was a fully chromed HT 2-inch Bobber Style beltdrive.
What makes this setup so different is the Helical Offset Tooth (HOT) design. The HOT setup can handle more horsepower by design than the same size straight tooth while still offering a reduced beltdrive noise up to 30 percent and greatly reduce beltdrive associated vibration. Also, the HT Belt Drive has a substantially increased torque capacity over a standard straight tooth beltdrive because its continuous rolling engagement belt always has three teeth engaged. Standard beltdrives only have one single tooth engaged at a time. This feature eliminates slipping, stretch, and can handle the power of big inch motors. The clutch plates have friction material covering the full ring for more engaged surface area and better holding power.
Evil Engineering is based in St. John, Michigan, and all of the products are manufactured and assembled here in the USA. We wanted to see how this beltdrive looked and how easy it was to install on one of our bikes, a '98 custom Softail with the help of the Evil Engineering's, Spread-Her tool. This tool fits between the two pulleys along with the belt so that they can be installed as one piece. Unlike normal beltdrives, with the helical offset teeth of the HT Beltdrive the belt can't just be slid onto the pullys, therefore this tool is necessary.
 Here is the HT 2-inch Bobber...  Here is the HT 2-inch Bobber Style beltdrive installed. One very evil looking set up, hell even my jeans are scared. |  The HT 2-inch Bobber Style...  The HT 2-inch Bobber Style beltdrive kit includes the belt Spread-Her tool, backing plate, clutch hub, springs, front pulley, chrome stator cover, starter jackshaft cover, and the HOT belt. |  Here's a close up shot of...  Here's a close up shot of the pulley and the Helical Offset Tooth (HOT) design. |
 The first thing we did was...  The first thing we did was disconnect the battery, then removed the existing primary drive. Next we checked the stator, rotor, and tranny pulley and cleaned up the area of any oil and dirt. We also ran a tap through all the bolt holes for the backing plate. |  First we installed the backing...  First we installed the backing plate to the motor and tranny using a little blue threadlocker on all the 5/16 bolts and then checked to see that all the engine pads had a solid contact, if not the engine would need to get shimmed. Everything fit right so we went ahead and torqued the bolts to 25 lb-ft. |  Next, we installed the starter...  Next, we installed the starter to the backing plate making sure that there was enough clearance for the oil bag and torqued the starter bolts to 20 lb-ft. Here is a look at how the starter jackshaft assembly goes into the primary. We started with the spring seat followed by the spring and starter pinion gear, then the tube and collar, and last the starter bolt. |
 Once all the starter parts...  Once all the starter parts were installed the pinion starter bolt was torqued to 12-15 lb-ft. |  Next, we installed the main...  Next, we installed the main shaft hub to the front pulley with a little blue threadlocker on each of the six bolts. |  Then we installed the chrome...  Then we installed the chrome stator/rotor cover to the pulley. |
 We placed the pulley on the...  We placed the pulley on the mainshaft to check for clearance. | | |