2007 Harley-Davidson Street Bob - Stretching Out On A Dyna

6. The forward shift arm's shaft was given a light coat of grease and then slid into the shift support mount before the mount was secured to the frame with a couple of Torx head bolts included in the kit and then....

7. Troy connected the shift linkage to both shift arms and installed the left foot peg.

8. Before installing the inner primary, Troy installed the new starter O-ring, engine gasket, and mainshaft seal. Troy lubed the inner part of the mainshaft seal with grease and then slid the cover back in place on the engine and transmission. The cover just slid in place and Troy made sure that it sat square and even against the engine and trans.

9. Here's a close up of the new inner primary case mounting bolts: notice the sealing O-ring embedded in the head of the bolt (A) and the dab of Loctite on the threads. The stock shift shaft tunnel is sealed with a stick-on gasket (B), which is also included in the kit. Troy referred to the manual for the torque pattern.

10. Troy then re-installed the primary drive assembly and installed the outer primary cover using the new gasket provided. The cover bolts were tightened according to torque pattern in the service manual. After adjusting the clutch Troy finished up the left side of the bike with the new shift lever and the same knurled shift peg.

11. On the right side Troy removed the Thunder Header exhaust followed by the stock brake lever/mount and linkage from the rear master cylinder. The linkage is threaded into the captured master cylinder pushrod and secured with a jam nut. Troy loosened the jam nut and unscrewed the linkage.

12. Troy transferred the stock locknut to the new black brake pedal linkage and threaded it into the master cylinder approximately the same distance as the stock pushrod. The linkage can be adjusted a short distance to move the position of the brake pedal in relation to the footpeg.

13. The new brake linkage (A) is joined to the brake lever (B) by a clevis pin (C) and a new style of cotter pin and washer. These round cotter pins are reusable. Make sure the lever has free movement on the clevis pin and brake linkage. Notice the plastic bushing for the brake lever pivot (D).

14. The brake lever pivot shaft (A) is indexed to the footpeg brake lever mount by machined flats on both parts. The footpeg mount (B) uses the same type of machined flat to locate the footpeg mount in the proper orientation. The brake pedal assembly was fastened to the frame mount with a Torx head bolt that passes through the footpeg mount and pivot shaft.

15. Troy installed the footpeg shim (arrow) that puts slight pressure on the footpeg to keep it from rattling in the mount and making noise.

16. Once the exhaust system was back on Troy gave the entire assembly a close look and made sure the new linkage was free and clear. He also checked the brake fluid level in the rear master cylinder and pumped the brake pedal a couple of times ensuring a solid pedal. Then he installed the chrome billet-style brake pedal pad to complete the look for both sides of the bike's foot controls.

17. And finally the last item to be addressed was filling the primary with fresh Formula Plus primary fluid. As Holley (arrow) cruises through the photo, Troy demonstrates the more comfortable position with the new forward controls installed. Notice that the top of Troy's thighs are now parallel to the ground.