New Project Bike

4. We decided to start out easy with the handlebar-mounted clock. The clock mounts to the left-side clutch lever perch top screw, either screw will work, top or bottom, depending on what height handlebars are on your bike. We used a drop of thread locker on the threads and torqued the screw to 60-80 in-lb, after positioning the mounting bracket.

5. The stainless steel mounting screw comes with thread locker already applied to the threads. We slid the screw through the bracket and screwed the clock onto the threads until the screw was snug.

6. We then tightened the clock to where we wanted it. We sat on the bike with our hands on the bars and with a quick glance we could read the clock easily. Now we won't have to toggle through to the clock setting on the new speedo/tach to see when dinner is.

7. Next we were ready to swap out the speedo. You can order your new speedo/tach combination gauge with preset mileage.

8. To avoid doing something stupid, like shorting out a component, we disconnected the batteries ground cable from the battery terminal. All H-D battery cable bolts are metric with a 10mm head. Just to be safe, we placed a shop towel between the cable and the battery to prevent the cable from making contact with the terminal and possibly causing an arc.

9. Once the electricity was disconnected, we were ready to remove the dash. We began by removing the acorn nut and washer. With a blanket or a thick bath towel placed on the gas tank, we carefully pulled the dash up and off the center mounting stud and laid it over on the blanket.

10. The speedometer is held in place by a plastic ring that also locates the speedo in the correct orientation to the dash housing. There are three plastic tabs on the rear of the speedo that lock in place on the ring. To remove the dash, we gently pried back on each tab while lifting that section of the ring: the ring slot (A), the ring locating lug (B) that indexes on the pin on the underside of the dash, and one of the tabs (C) on the back of the speedo.

11. Last to be removed was the electrical connection. We disenged the connection by gently prying the side clasps (arrows) of the connector and then pulling the plug from the socket.

12. The speedo was free of the dash and as we removed the speedo from the "top" side of the dash, the rubber vibration gasket came off with it. We slid the rubber gasket from the stock speedo and reinstalled it on the speedo opening in the dash. We then carefully slid the new speedo into place, being careful to work the locking tabs (arrow) on the back of the speedo past the rubber gasket. A little squirt of glass cleaner works well as a lubricant.

13. With the speedo in position and the locking ring "locked" and holding the speedo in place, we reconnected the electrical. The electrical plug opening in the back of the speedo is facing the opposite direction than the stock unit, this is due to the addition of the tach on the lower half of the speedo.

14. We turned the dash back over and placed it over the mounting stud. We made sure the dash located correctly the leather tank cover. We replaced the acorn nut and washer on the dash mounting stud and torqued it to 80-100 in-lb. Then we reconnected the battery ground cable, rider`s seat and passenger seat and we were almost done.

15. Before starting the bike, we checked that all the switches worked, turn signals, horn, etc. You will notice the mileage window has moved to the middle right of the speedo face. Also note the word "color" appears in the window when the ignition switch is turned to accessories and the trip meter button is held in. To set the background color of the gauge and the color of the needles we held the trip meter button in and scrolled through the different colors until we found the one we liked.

16. There you have it. It took us a couple of days to get used to the new speedo face and different location of the various indicator lights. The instruction sheet suggests filling the gas tank as soon as possible so the "miles to empty" feature of the speedo can adjust itself to your riding habits. We just found out that when the gas level falls into the red zone of the gauge the "miles to empty" will automatically display in the window.

17. Lastly, the oil temperature dipstick, was the easiest to installed. We pulled the stock dipstick, checked the oil level, and then wiped the dipstick clean and set aside. We wiped the new temperature dipstick clean and pushed it into the oil tank filler neck. We like our gauge oriented to read from the right side of the bike.