1996 SoftailSpringer - Hot Bike Magazine

7. On the bar ends we drilled smaller 5/16 inch holes for the left and right side switch wire leads. Once the holes were drilled we made sure to de-burr the holes and file down the sharp edges so they wouldn't cut into the wires
7. On the bar ends we drilled smaller 5/16 inch holes for the left and right side switch
8. Both the left and right side wiring leads have two sets of brown and yellow wires. One set of brown and yellow goes to the blinker button on each side. On the right side the remaining set goes to the start button, while on the left side the remaining set goes to the horn.
8. Both the left and right side wiring leads have two sets of brown and yellow wires. One
9. Here are the PM wires for the right side. The directions instructed us to wrap each set of the brown and yellow blinker wires with tape so that we could easily identify the wires once they were routed through the bars.
9. Here are the PM wires for the right side. The directions instructed us to wrap each se

10. Next, we needed to create a guide to pull each set of wires from the holes at the controls to the hole at the center of the bars. There are plenty of ways to do this; such as sucking a piece of string through the bars with a vacuum cleaner or fishing some lightweight wire through the bars. We found with the tight bends in these bars that a piece of string with a nut tied to the end of it worked just fine.
10. Next, we needed to create a guide to pull each set of wires from the holes at the con
11. Pulling the wires through the sharp bends on the mini z-bars turned out to be quite a chore. We secured the wire leads to the string with plenty of electrical tape, then lubricated the inside of the bars the best we could to help the wires slide through easier.
11. Pulling the wires through the sharp bends on the mini z-bars turned out to be quite a
12. It took a lot of patience and pushing/pulling from different angles but we were finally able to get each set of wires routed down through the center hole.
12. It took a lot of patience and pushing/pulling from different angles but we were final

13. Next, we measured out the stock wiring leads from the stock connectors to the PM wiring leads. Then we cut the stock wires (right) to an appropriate length for our application.
13. Next, we measured out the stock wiring leads from the stock connectors to the PM wiri
14. Next, we were ready to begin soldering the stock wires with the stock terminal ends to the PM switch wires. Before soldering we made sure to slide small strips of shrink tube over each wire.
14. Next, we were ready to begin soldering the stock wires with the stock terminal ends t
15. Here is a shot of the PM wiring diagram instructions. According to PM's instructions the switch housings are designed for a wide array of full custom big twins. The PM wire colors are not matched to any specific manufacturer, but can be easily cross-referenced to most late-model Harleys with the provided color chart. If you lose the diagram, you can download the entire instructions off the PM website.
15. Here is a shot of the PM wiring diagram instructions. According to PM's instructions

16. We picked up this portable butane soldering tool kit from Sears. It has various attachments so you can use it as a soldering iron as well as a heat gun for shrink tube.
16. We picked up this portable butane soldering tool kit from Sears. It has various attac
17. Once we had the wires stripped we began soldering. We heated up the wire joints first, and then applied the solder to the wire. Once the solder covered the connections, we removed the heat source and allowed it to harden. A long piece of shrink tube was slipped over all the wires on each side. This would help further protect the wires and provide a cleaner look.
17. Once we had the wires stripped we began soldering. We heated up the wire joints first
18. Once we had all the connections wired and sealed we mounted the bars back onto the bike. The Joker Machine Springer risers feature a hidden mounting setup. There are two top pieces. The first piece is the actual top clamp to secure the bars (seen here), and the other is a cap that fits over the top clamp to hide the Allen bolts.
18. Once we had all the connections wired and sealed we mounted the bars back onto the bi

19. Here you can see how we routed the left and right side wiring leads out the bottom of the bars and down the backbone. You can also see how the top cover on the riser provides an uncluttered finish.
19. Here you can see how we routed the left and right side wiring leads out the bottom of
20. We used a set of Battistini grips with speed holes to help tie the black and chrome together even more. The Contour clutch lever has a nice slim design and is long enough to make pulling in a stiff clutch easy. The buttons are small enough that they don't take away from the sleek lines of the control assemblies, but are still easy to activate. Starting from the left: left turn, horn, high/low beam.
20. We used a set of Battistini grips with speed holes to help tie the black and chrome t
21. On the right side you get a good look at the streamlined one-piece master cylinder assembly. The brake lever can be easily adjusted in towards the bar or out away from the bar to give you a longer or shorter pull. Starting on the far right the switches are: right turn, start, and kill. The kill switch button is slightly shorter than the other two for easy identification.
21. On the right side you get a good look at the streamlined one-piece master cylinder as

22. The aggressive look of the Biltwell bars combined with the sleek PM controls really set the tone for the rest of the bike.
22. The aggressive look of the Biltwell bars combined with the sleek PM controls really s