Home Welders From HTP - Tech

7. Here is a shot of the control panel starting with the three indicator lamps, power, welding current, and the Thermo switch (A). This is the slope down or spot time (B). This is the final current knob that can be adjusted from 10 to 90 percent of the base current (C). This is the post gas flow adjustment (D). This is the welding mode switch; with five settings four for TIG (based on materials) and one for stick welding (E). This is the amperage adjustment knob (F). Here is the remote/local switch this is to work the foot pedal or the torch to control amperage (G). Here is the Lift Arc/HF switch, this lets you choose between bringing the Tungsten in contact with the weld Arc or trigger start the arc with the pedal (H). If you chose to you can use and adjust the pulse TIG welding by turning this knob, or in the off position this can be done with the foot pedal (I).

8. This is the 17 series torch. It's an air-cooled torch and is set up with the alumina nozzle (A), gas lens collet body (B), collet (C), and a stick of tungsten (D).

9&10. Select the tungsten diameter based on the thickness of the material you will be welding. A 1/16-inch tungsten is good for sheet metal up to about 1/8 inch. Then select a matching 1/16-inch collet and 1/16-inch collet body. Then install the correct size alumina cup, which directs the argon shield gas around the weld. If you were going to weld material that is 1/8 inch to 1/4 inch you would want to use the 3/32-inch tungsten. The type of tungsten is designated by the color of the tip. We got 2 percent thoriated tungsten which has a red tip for welding steel and green tip for aluminum.

11. Once we were set up and ready to weld, the Invertig-160 DC was easy to use and make adjustments as we went along. The torch was a nice fit in our hand and to control the Arc with the foot pedal was easy to pick up and get the flow down.

12. Also if you need it HTP offers a DVD ($60) with over 70 minutes of info on how-to TIG weld along with setting up your welder, different arc starting, tungsten types, machine controls, and most important welding mistakes.

13. Here's the HTP Micro Cut 301 Plasma cutter. We all know how hard it is to cut a clean line on a thick fender or sheetmetal with a grinder, so if you are a fabricator, this compact unit is a great addition to your garage. The unit requires 220-volt power and compressed air.

14. To get started we needed to install the bracket for the pressure gauge with regulator, there are two small Phillips head screws for the bracket on the back of the cutter. Then we connected the air hose to the quick connect (arrow) on the regulator.

15. Here is how the regulator looks with the air fitting in place mounted to the cutter, also on the back you will find the power switch.

16. On the front of the plasma cutter you will find the indicator lights and the cutting power adjustment knob.

17. The cutting torch has a safety trigger switch cover and a 13 foot long power cord, and a 9 foot long ground cable (not shown).

18. Here is the torch parts breakdown, starting with the handle then there's the Swirl ring (A), then the electrode (B), the cutting tip (C), and last the gas diffuser (D). Also, you can get extended electrode and cutting tips for different styles of cutting.

19. Once we were plugged into power and connected to our air compressor we set the cutting power to the size of sheetmetal we were working on. Then we flipped the switch and hit the trigger and we were cutting smooth and fast. Whether we were cutting flat or curved sheetmetal it was easy to get used to how to move the torch over the cutting area. The 301 cuts easily through steel, stainless steel, aluminum or any other material that conducts electricity.