Hill Country Custom Cycles Ape Hanger Kit - Size Matters

7. Finally, we removed the upper clamps on the handlebar assembly and lifted off the stock bars.

8. We adjusted the stock risers about 1/8-inch to line them up to fit into the step down on the beefy Wild 1 bars. We used a bit of 3M Adhesive Remover to clean off the warning sticker.

9. The new bars were then placed on the frontend just begging for cables and connections.

10. To begin the electrical work, John removed the connectors from the old hand control wiring. He pulled back the black wire holder and the orange seal to expose the wires.

11. Then John pulled the white inner pin-lock up with needle nose pliers. Next he inserted a special terminal remover-a small paper clip-into the small round hole next to each wire pin to release the pin lock and pull the wire from the back of the connector. This was repeated for all pins and both connectors.

12. John sorted and inspected the wires for the new left hand control. The wires were nicely cut and tinned ready for pin terminals. Plus all the wires were color coded to match the existing wiring harness.

13. New pin terminals were required to install the connectors on the new hand control wires. So John crimped a pin terminal to the end of each wire on the new hand controls.

14. To insert the wire pins, John followed the wire color and pinhole number specifications from the service manual-wiring diagram. If you don't have a service manual, use the matching wiring harness connector as a guide to pair up the same color wires. Insert each pin, insert the orange seal, snap on the black wire holder, and press in the white inner pin-lock to complete the connector.

15. Next, we installed the new braided brake line to the banjo bolts on the front brake caliper and the master cylinder reservoir and torqued the 12-point bolts to 17-22 lb-ft.

16. Here we installed the throttle grip and attached the throttle and idle cables. In the handlebar housing, the throttle cable goes to the front and the idle cable goes to the rear. The throttle cable has a larger diameter insert than the idle cable. On the throttle body (not pictured) the throttle cable sleeve goes into the inside (or bike side) hole of the throttle wheel and the idle cable with spring goes in the outside hole.

17. Tommy installed the clutch cable into the left hand control and routed the cable down the bar and to the right side of the bike. Note: Take extra time to route all cables so that the lines are not kinked or pinched and there is no binding over the full side-to-side movement of the frontend.

18. We removed the clutch release cover from the right side of the transmission, disconnected the old clutch cable, and connected the new cable.

19. After Tommy reinstalled the turn signals to the lower fork bracket using a relocator kit, the three amigos got started reinstalling the fuel tank. First, we connected the console and tested all the switches to be sure our connectors worked. Then, after installing the tank, we attached the console. Finally, with the seat installed, Tommy got to hang on the new bars while John adjusted the handlebar and hand control positions.

20. After John torqued the handlebar clamp bolts to 16-20 lb-ft, and tightened the handle controls and adjusted the throttle and clutch cables, we filled the master cylinder with dot 4 fluid and bled the front brakes. Once we finished the install, everyone agreed the bars looked great. And, this was the look Tommy was after: High quality parts, beautiful chrome finish, clean style, and hands-at-the-shoulder look.