When it comes to baggers, it's all about comfort and extra storage. But you can have style as well, and still have some dough left in your pocket. When we buy a new bike, most of the money goes toward the down payment, leaving us with a thin wallet for upgrades. Therefore, most guys start small and work their way up, adding parts to the bike a little at a time. Quick and easy installs, such as pipes and seats, seem to be a convenient and fairly affordable place to start for most people. When you've got a few extra bucks, your bike's controls are a good part to swap out, and floorboards are another logical step. We were lucky enough to get our hands on the newest set of floorboards from Performance Machine for our '04 Road King. These floorboards are machined aluminum with billet hinges and are topped with a unique rubber design. The cut and shape of these running boards is another cool feature, getting away from their rectangular stock counterpart. We also like the fact of getting some style from a fast and simple install, with a little moolah left over. We stopped at Horn Cycle Works in Pomona, CA, to get the running boards installed and pick up any tips on what would make the install easier. Mike Rupp, a shop dog with more than 35 years in the industry, was glad to give us a hand. 1. Here are the running boards for both the rider and the passenger, the brake arm with a matching platform-style pedal with its own rubber pad, and a shift arm with a contour pedal. The shift arm could be set up as a heel-toe or just a toe shifter. There is also a spacer that can be used to fill the space if you only use the toe shifter. MSRP for this setup is as follows:Rider floorboards: $379.95 Polished passenger floorboards: $329.95Polished brake lever: $129.95Polished shift lever: $109.95 Add an extra $20 to each if you want chrome.1. Here are the running boards for both the rider and the passenger, the brake arm with a 2. Mike started by removing the stock floorboards from both sides. 3. Next, he pulled the cotter pin from the stock brake pedal to the master cylinder. 4. A 5/8-inch wrench was used to remove the bolt from the old brake pedal. 5. Mike then slid the pedal into place, but found it was a little tight and did not feel smooth, so with a hand drill and a small ball-hone, he cleaned up the inside of the sleeve. Using some emery cloth, he also cleaned up the shaft.5. Mike then slid the pedal into place, but found it was a little tight and did not feel s 6. Before Mike installed the new pedal, he dabbed a little white grease on the inside of the brass sleeve of the pedal. This is a good idea any time you have moving parts like this.6. Before Mike installed the new pedal, he dabbed a little white grease on the inside of t 1 | 2 | » | View Full Article By Ernie Lopez Enjoyed this Post? Subscribe to our RSS Feed, or use your favorite social media to recommend us to friends and colleagues!
