2006 V-Rod Night Rod - Slammed-V

With a plan for the rear end in my head, I started to work on the swingarm modifications that would be required to extend 29mm (nearly 2 inches) and wide enough for a 10-1/2-inch wheel, cush drive, and pulley. I started by removing the section that connects the two legs to one another. I then made a jig that would support each leg in its stock length (for cutting) and in its extended length for welding and machining. At that point, the two legs were cut in half and 2x3 6061 billet aluminum was machined and shaped to bridge the gap in the extended swingarm. Once the billet pieces were welded into place, the legs were then machined and sanded to smooth the outside while providing a mounting surface on the inside for connecting the two sides together. At that point I began working on the mounting bracket for the top of the shock and the bottom, which also joined the two legs. Those pieces we fabricated from 3/8-inch and 1/2-inch 6061 billet.

Once the swingarm fabrication was complete and I could actually operate the rear end on the frame with the wheel/tire in place, I began to be concerned with the overall strength of the setup. After discussing ideas with a buddy that makes prosthetics (artificial limbs), I decided that I would fill the hollow portion of the legs with resin and carbon fiber and cover the outsides with two layers of carbon fiber braid and resin. After spending some time at my friend's shop, and using the same processes that go into making artificial limbs, we had some really nice looking and very strong swingarm legs.

Next on the list of items to tackle was the frontend. Since I wanted the bike to slam down, my goal was to have the frontend drop as well for a more even look and lower net drop. It turns out that the V-Rod forks have a long steel tube spacer inside on top of the actual spring. Once I removed that spacer, I was able to source an air cylinder (ram) that had an outside diameter just under that of the inside diameter of the fork tube. I then fabricated an adapter to the end of the ram that would press on top of the spring and keep itself centered. The next step was to modify the existing fork caps to allow the airline for the ram to pass through. Once the new "Adjustable Spacer Cartridge" was finished, I just needed to remove excess oil from the forks (since the old tube was hollow) and install the cartridge. Since the original spring was still able to operate as in a stock configuration, there was no need for the rams to actually perform any shock function. They could simply be filled to a point where they would perform the function of the old spacer, yet drop the front several inches when the air is released.

Then I turned my attention to developing a wireless module that would control the air pressure in the front and rear suspension as well as serve as a keyless ignition. After a short time I gathered up the required electrical and pneumatic components, assembled the unit and completed the software. After fabricating a mounting plate that would hold everything around the air filter, I plumbed all of the lines to the rear shock and the two front rams.

With my 6-foot 2-inch height, the mid controls would not suit me for any extended ride at all. However, instead of simply relocating the pegs and controls forward (by using a frame section and mounts from another V-Rod model), I figured I would add a forward control setup and keep the existing position. After a couple days of thinking about the problem on and off, I came up with a novel idea-use the two master cylinders in series. What I mean by that is use the front master cylinder just as it would normally, but instead of running the high pressure side to the caliper, run it to the reservoir side of the mid control master cylinder. The only custom thing I had to make for this setup to work was an adapter that would hold the high pressure line from the front master cylinder to the reservoir side of the mid master cylinder since it was not designed to hold a high pressure hose. Now on long rides I can switch between the two riding positions and not have to worry about my feet being out of position for a quick brake or shift.

Another special feature of this bike is the fairing. I wanted something that would complement the bike and actually add protection when in a tucked position, but the standard fairing that came on the D did not. I choose the Rifle Roadster fairing with the tinted bubble windscreen. I trimmed about 3 inches from each side and fabricated mounts for the handlebar and the lower triple tree from 6061 billet. In order for the headlight to match the fairing, I utilized an assembly from an '05 B-model V-Rod. While this headlight would match the hole in the fairing, I did have to make an adapter to relocate the headlight forward and down about 1 inch to line up correctly.

At this point the bike was again disassembled and the various parts were sent out for powdercoating, chroming, painting and upholstery. During the reassembly, all stock fasteners were replaced with polished stainless steel from Diamond Engineering, since I learned the hard way on my last build that chrome ones rust right away.